Polynesian night on the Paul Gauguin

About the Tango on the beach

We are compelled by a fit of honesty to report that we never did the tango on the beach. There are three reasons:

First, we never learned how to tango. We watched a YouTube video that showed the basic steps, and we both admit that the basics are simple. And we did a few steps in the living room before we left, but our stomping around scared the dog so we stopped. 

Second, there never was the right beach at the right time. Sure, French Polynesia is awash in beaches, and we were on a couple for more than a few minutes. However, the times we had any significant beach time we were without music. It just didn't seem right to ask new friends to hum a few bars of a tango while we skidded through the sand. Some things are hard to explain to new acquaintances. 

Third, if the mood was right and the music was handy, getting to the beach wasn't possible. You see, the Paul Gauguin, nimble in shallow water as it is, doesn't dock at ports of call. One gets to shore by tender. Certainly the Paul Gauguin is famous for meeting every need, but we never thought that their generosity extended to a special tender trip to shore so we could tango in the moonlight. 

But we DID tango in the stateroom and in the hallway outside the gift shop. And it was nighttime when we did it. And it was on our anniversary.

Close enough.

Home again

It's not going to be easy to decompress after 8 days in French Polynesia, although the trip home certainly did its part.

It's not easy getting to and from Papeete. We flew from Atlanta to Los Angeles, had a 7 hour layover, and then flew on to Tahiti. It was a long trip, but the excitement of what was ahead certainly lessened the rigors of tourist class seats on Delta (not awful; we spent a few extra dollars for Economy Comfort,) and on Air Tahiti Nui (tiny seats, 8 hours.)

The trip home was the same but with longer waits in between.

After disembarking the Paul Gauguin at noon, we were taken on a 3 hour tours of Tahiti. At 3 we got into our room at the InterContinental where we repacked with emphasis on the Air Tahiti Nui weight restrictions. (Air Tahiti Nui is serious about not going over weight requirements. They even have limits on the weight of carry-on luggage.)

We left Papeete at midnight, arrived in LA at 10 AM, checked into the Sheraton, slept, watched part of a football game, ate dinner, then went back to the airport for the last leg. The flight left at 10:45 PM and we got to Atlanta at 6 AM. Home, kiss the dog, sleep in your own bed for 6 hours, and now begin to come back to life.

What day is this again?

In a day or so we'll reflect on the trip, showcase Rebecca's photographs, and give you the details on how to book this trip for yourself. Which you should do.

Right now, however, Mark's going to get another cup of coffee.

Moorea at sunset December 13, 2013

Moorea part one

So we're in this shop on Moorea, and we ask the shop owner to suggest a restaurant for lunch. He takes us, in his car, to his friend John's place. It's small, been there 25 years, and John looks like he probably knew James Michiner as a boy. Dogs are sleeping on the floor of the bar, the signs are for the local Tahitian beer, John sits at a back table smoking cigarettes and drinking Dubonnet and soda. Honest.

This place was not in the tour books. The menu is on two chalkboards, which John dragged over and propped up by the table.

All outward signs pointed to either fabulous or a disaster.

It was fabulous.

Rebecca had a masterful, but simple, mixed green salad. I had broiled mahi with a pineapple, mango, coconut sauce. Whoa baby!

Off the beaten path is the only way to travel.

John's restaurant on Moorea.

The menu propped up next to our table.

Rebecca at our table.

More photos from Rebecca ... Bora Bora and Moorea

NWRebecca is taking a photo excursion this morning, and she'll have more for you later today.

It's our last full day on the ship. We been the arduous journey home Saturday night in Papeete and will be home Monday AM. It will be awhile before Mark can find the words to describe the trip.

Mark meets a stingray off Bora Bora

Outrigger

Mark's stingray

Our guide

Private motu on Bora Bora

Bora Bora

Mark amazingly catches a coconut as it falls from the tree. (Ok, so he threw the coconut up in the air and caught it. But who needs to know, right?)

Cooking fish

Moorea --  Cook's Bay

Rebecca's photographs

Here are a few of Rebecca's photographs.

Swimming with the sharks and the rays

We will never forget today.

Mark does not swim well and is nervous in the water. It is what it is. Rebecca is an excellent swimmer. Neither have had much experience swimming in a lagoon near Bora Bora where the black sharks and the stingrays come up to be petted and fed. 

So put Mark in a snorkel for the first time in his life, give him his underwater camera, strap on a life vest, and insert him in crystal blue water. 

He loved it. He petted the stingray (feels like velvet,) and photographed the sharks from an acceptable distance.

Rebecca is very proud of Mark. 

So is Mark.

There was snorkeling in a coral garden, and then a traditional Polynesiasn feast. Pork, fish, plantains, breadfruit, yucca, are placed on top of hot rocks, covered with banana leaves and left alone for 3 or so hours. The result is heavenly. We ate with our fingers. We'll be back. And you should come visit too.

Here we are snorkeling at the coral garden. 

We tell you about this adventure because we chose this excursion for its high tourist value. Actually, it sounded a little cheesy. We were wrong. The whole experience was one for the ages.

Sharks and stingrays. Damn. Can you believe it? 

Cooking fresh fish for lunch.

Lunch after a morning chasing stingrays and sharks.

Bora Bora

Spent the afternoon walking around Bora Bora then took a taxi ride around the island. Today we swim with sting rays and sharks (really) and then more beach frolic on a local motu. 

On the north side of Bora Bora. In the distance is the St Regis.

Our guide to everything Bora Bora.

North side looking inward

Tourism is down on Bora Bora. This is one of three bankrupt hotels. Locals say it's overbuilt. But the island still attracts it's share of the rich and famous who'll pay $1700 or more a night to stay in a place like his.

We may have to wait until we get back to post Rebecca's photographs. WiFi and all that is erratic even on a good day. 

But the overall experience is singularly spectacular. We'll have memories forever. 

Bora Bora early Tuesday

The Private Island

One day of the cruise is reserved for the Paul Gauguin's own little corner of the South Pacific. 

All of the islands we'll visit are ringed by motu's,  or islands. A motu can be large and inhabited, or as small as your garage. Motu Mahana belongs to the cruise line and looks like a movie set. Bars, food, chairs, trinket selling, snorkeling, diving, drinking, hot sun, and great fun. You just have to lose yourself in this stuff.

It's almost a truism that the passengers are a diverse lot. The biggest group is from the US followed by France. Then Asians and people from everywhere else. Remember, there are just 260 passengers total.the population is just large enough not to get thrown together with the same people, but small enough to make a fairly wide selection of new acquaintances.

We are in Bora Bora for the next two days. This is one of the more developed islands and has, according the somebody who knows these things, the largest number of high-end stores and resorts. Tomorrow we"re going to a Polynesian excursion ... Tour by out rigger canoe, snorkeling, visiting some tame stingrays, watching some non-tame sharks, and eating a typical Tahitian feast. Film at 11.

Overall, the trip has been beyond our expectations and has been a lovely way to celebrate a wonderful love and friendship.

Motu Mahana

Mou Mahana with the Paul Gauguin in the distance. The island behind the ship is Taha'a.

The pool area. The pool is the size of our dining room, only wetter.

Gods and ancestors

 Yesterday was the 40th anniversary date and we celebrated in typical Johnson fashion style. 

We started with an archeological tour of the island of Hauhine (that's pronounced way-he-ne.)

It is one of the least populated of the islands -- 7000 or so --- incredibly lush, and the site of a number of significant archeological sites.

Rebecca and I are glad we as it. Fruit grows everywhere, tourism is minimal, the people are friendly, and the large sacred eels have blue eyes.

The black eels swim in a sacred pool which bears a strong resemblance to a creek, eat sacred salmon out of a can, and delight in swimming through the legs of the children who pick them up and pet them. I will not question their sacred credentials. One respects other beliefs. But I personally do not need to get particularly close to a sacred eel with blue eyes, and I was not motivated by religion or curiosity to pick up one of the damn things.

We visited a vanilla plantation --- French Polynesian vanilla is highly prized. A typical vanilla plantation is the size of a small backyard, growing vanilla is very hands-on and you apparently must know a lot about the sexual preferences of a vanilla plant. 

We ate dinner last night at LaVeranda on the ship. Wow. One of the best meals ever. Truly memorable.

Today we're spending the day on Motu Mahana, a private island owned by Paul Gauguin cruises. Polynesian barbecue, alcohol consumption for many, dancing, snorkeling, frivolity and sunshine await.

Onward.

Rebecca at a historic village site on Hauhine, French Polynesia December 15, 2013.

700 year old Banyon tree on Hauhine

Reproduction of a chief's home, now a Polynesian history museum, on Hauhine.

Everybody in the tour group but Mark looking at at the Sacred Blue Dyed Eels of Hauhine. (You had to be there.)

As soon as we get to a better wifi connection, Mark will upload the first set of Rebecca's fabulous photographs from French Polynesia.

Day two

After a night at the ale Meridian in Papeete, we boarded the Paul Gauguin about 3. They've got it down: registration took about 5 minutes. Our stateroom was about the size of a baseball card, so we upgraded to quarters more appropriate for 2 people celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary. 

When we got to the room, we found a note from Hamilton and Kelley and a creative Christmas present.

The ship what we expected. Unfailing friendly drew, we'll-maintained, really good food. 

This morning we're taking a four hour excursion to visit archeological digs on Hauhine. (It's raining. Now it not.) We're interested in that kind of stuff, OK?

Rebecca went to the doctor yesterday AM in Papeete for a recurring earache. We tell you this because the experience was great and the doctor and pharmacie very helpful. And they didn't charge beyond what was clearly normal. She's better. 

It is, as has been reported, beautiful. The only fear is that  don't make too big a deal out of the anniversary thing, but I fear it is brewing. 

More today after exploring the past. Rebecca is taking some fabulous photos, and we'll share.

Early this morning. (Sunday)

The Koi pond at Le Meridian

We're here

We arrived in Pape'ete this morning at 6:15 AM local time. (11:30 EST.) When we finally got in the taxi, we realized that we had been traveling for exactly 24 hours: 

That's 4 1/2 hours to LA from Atlanta, 7 hours layover in LA, 8 1/2 hours LA to Papeete and assorted driving and waiting. 

But we're here. This is the view from our deck at the Le Meridian. I could --- and probably will -- sit for hours watching the fish swim in the coral reef below us. Wow.

Dinner break in LA

After 4 1/2 hours in the air,  we ate having dinner at LAX. It's the famous iconic restaurant in the middle of the airport. 

On the way

On the airplane at ATL. Headed for LAX. Crowded of course but we're on the way.

Six hours and counting

The packing is more or less completed, and we have begun the "did I remember to pack ..." stage of the adventure.

This is the most dangerous stage of the pre-trip adventure.

Mark is sitting at his desk, and he thinks: "I wonder if I'll need a socket wrench?" Then: "I've got room for it."

Yep, it's the "need" stage. Suitcases and carry-ons by the millions are stuffed with things people need. Not critical clothing items or medicines, but last minute essentials like extra pencils, a hard drive, framed pictures of the dog, two hair dryers, an extra sweater (you're going to the South Pacific you idiot!), a spare wallet, 200 business cards .... and so it goes.

The reality (if one is willing to face reality 6 hours before one leaves for the airport,) is that you don't "need" anything beyond the essentials. Sure, adequate and diverse clothing, shoes, hats, and all that. But those 4 fountain pens will leak on the airplane, and you'll never sit somewhere and play dominos with the set you brought from home. ("But it won't take up much room," Mark is reported to have said.)

And the fact that domino set might cost $10 in extra weight is always a consideration. And that's not funny.

As for the socket wrench, Mark was reminded by The Goddess that he doesn't own a socket wrench, nor would he know what to do with one if he had it. Those, he replied, were merely details.

Do you think I'll need my muffler?

Packing is a series of decisions ... and the closer you get to the trip, the easier the decisions become.

A trip to Tahiti is a no brainer in some respects. No, Mark won't need his winter coat, and it's unlikely events will demand a jeweled purse.

But then, again, how many bathing suits? A friend of ours who has sailed on the M/S Paul Gauguin, tells us we'll live in swim suits during the day and in casual at night. Sounds good to us. The forecast calls for 86 for the high and the high 60's for the low. 

Mark mentioned earlier that Air Tahiti Nui had some rather rigid luggage policies. You're allowed one bag weighing no more than 50 pounds. A second bag is $150. OK, so we'll pack carefully. We have luggage that is very light, and we evaluate anything that could conceivably add weight. (Let's hear it for ebooks.)

We're almost packed and the lists are being checked. And weighed.

Do you have change for a 1000 CFP?

The Euro has taken the fun out of traveling to Europe. Rebecca would go on a business trip and come back with a collection of Guilders, Francs, Lire, and other currency. No more. Britain still has the pound of course, and our neigh ors to the south and north have their own currency.

French Polynesia is owned by France, and it's currency is the CFP Franc.

At the current exchange rate, this 1000 CFP note is $11.42. Our hotel room at the LeMeridian in Papeete is CFP 30,450.

Luckily the M/S Paul Gauguin works on American currency, and I would imagine enough tourists come to Tahiti to make the US dollar an accepted medium of exchange.

But a tip from one who is mathematically challenged: get a currency converter app for your smartphone. You may be bright enough to convert the prices in your head, but don't count on it.

Long flights in the back of the airplane

If you fly a lot internationally, you already have your list of little survival tricks. Every flyer is different, and what works for one person might be hellish torture for another. Here's what works for us.

Our on-board survival kit includes:

     1. Snacks, especially Trail Mix, Pringles, peanut butter crackers and M&M Peanuts. 

     2. A bottle of water.

     3. A very good book or two that you already have started so you know you like it. (Rebecca reads actual books printed on paper; Mark reads them on his iPad. There are arguments for both.)

     4. A fully-charged iPod or other music player with a good pair of noise canceling ear buds or headphones.

     5. Sweatpants to change into after take-off.

     6. Ear plugs if you don't have an iPod.

     7. For an 8-hour flight, 5 mg of Ambien is a Godsend, but don't take any medications unless you check with your doctor first, OK? We're telling you what works for us, and we have a prescription. Got that?

     8. The kind of travel pillow you get at a travel store.

     9. Mark takes BreatheRight strips.

     10. Rebecca likes crossword puzzles; Mark likes Word Search.

Mark has found that audio books help pass the time better than the written word. Of course, you run the risk of falling asleep in the middle of a crucial chapter. 

Next time we'll talk about packing. Air Tahiti Nui has some very strict baggage restrictions, and it will be interesting to see how we meet them. 

Getting to Tahiti

Getting to Tahiti isn't as easy as you think it is. (Not that everyone thinks about going to Tahiti, but they should, because lying on a beach somewhere in French Polynesia is a damn sight more comforting than watching the news.)

Getting there:

First you fly from Atlanta to Los Angeles.

Then you take your luggage from the Delta terminal and go to the terminal for Air Tahiti Nui. 

Once you get there, you check in, go through all the security and customs stuff, then wait 6 or so hours. Why would you do that? You would do that because there is one flight a day to Papeete, Tahiti, from LAX, and it leaves at midnight. Your Delta flight from Atlanta arrives at 5 PM, PST. Got it?

The flight to Papeete from LAX is 8 hours. Since you are sitting in coach, you will drug yourself and try to sleep, reminding yourself that whatever discomfort there might be is trumped by palm trees, blue water and warm sea breezes.

The return from Tahiti has its own magic. One leaves Papeete at midnight on Air Tahiti Nui. Eight hours later one arrives in Los Angeles. It is morning. You take your bags, ride the shuttle to the Sheraton where a room is waiting and you sleep. Why are you doing this? Because the Delta flight home (when you fly SkyMiles tickets your options can be limited 2 days before Christmas) doesn't leave until 11:30 PM. 

You will check in at Delta, fly the Red Eye, and arrive in Atlanta at 6:30 in the AM. You will be home after a marvelous trip and intimate knowledge of not one, but two, airline schedules.

It's something to think about.

Dancing the tango on a tropical beach.

The Tango, except that it is not being danced by Mark and Rebecca nor is it being danced on a beach..

The whole thing with the tango started with a magazine ad Mark saw that featured a couple dancing the tango on a tropical beach. It looked cool, and that prompted Mark to say to Rebecca "We'll do that one of these days."

To date they haven't, primarily because they don't know how to do the tango, and because the right time at the right beach has not presented itself. 

The second requirement has been met.

It has been determined by Rebecca and Mark that the celebration of the 40th wedding anniversary is momentous enough of an occasion and that the fact they'll be in the South Pacific takes care of the right location. 

The issue of not actually being able to dance the tango has raised its ugly head, but the Johnson's are not without technical skills and are assured there are instruction videos on YouTube.

Rebecca has wisely pointed out that to fulfill the goal of dancing the tango on the beach does not require all that much tango or, for that matter, all that much beach. 

But dance they must, and dance they will. Updates as they become available.